The art of the straight razor shave has returned. More and more, men are becoming interested in not only using the straight razor method at home in their daily grooming rituals, but also seeking out a good shave as a service in the barber shop. Interested in the art of shaving with a straight razor, but don’t know where to start? Whether you’re experimenting at home, or curious what to ask for the next time you’re in the barber shop, below is a list of the 6 most common types of straight razor shaves to get you familiar with the basics of straight razor shaving.
The First-Time-Over Shave
As the name suggests, the first-time-over shave is the primary shave in a standard shave service. This shave is performed on lathered facial hair, in the direction of the hair growth. The objective is to remove beard growth without causing irritation.
The Second-Time-Over Shave
The second-time-over shave has two purposes, it can be used following the first-time-over shave or as part of a close shave. As the second step to the first-time-over shave, a second-time-over shave is used to address any rough or uneven spots on the skin. This type of second-time-over shave is performed on moistened skin (either after a warm towel or with water) shaving with or across the grain.
The Once-Over Shave
Running low on time? The once-over shave is the quickest. This is the method of shaving that was most frequently used when men went to barbershops daily for a shave. The once-over shave creates a smooth surface in one lather by using multiple strokes across the grain.
The Close Shave
Getting the closest shave typically requires shaving the beard against the grain. The practice of a close shave is a two-step process, a first-time-over shave in the direction of the hair growth, followed by a second-time-over shave with strokes across the grain and against the grain. Although shaving against the grain does provide a close shave, it also has a higher potential to irritate the skin, leading to infection or ingrown hairs. This is not a traditionally used method because of its potential to be irritating but can be performed on request.
The Neck Shave
With the service of a facial shave, adding on neck shave is common. This involves shaving the neckline on both sides of the neck behind the ears and possibly the nape if requested. Adding on a neck shave to your facial shave is an easy way to keep your hair cut looking fresh, without getting a haircut.
The Outline Shave
Another more extensive way to touch up your haircut is to get a full outline shave. The outline shave involves areas typically shaved in the neck shave in addition to sideburns, around the ears, behind the ears, and sometimes the front hairline. The outline shave can be a standalone service or is commonly part of the finishing touches of a haircut.
Interested in learning more about the methods of straight razor shaving? Check out our barbering program at Coba Academy today!
